Our Viking Lif journey, tracing the Danube from Bucharest to Budapest, offered a unique blend of river cruising and land-based exploration. The pre- and post-cruise hotel stays were a welcome addition, promising a deeper dive into Eastern Europe. However, as early 50-somethings, my husband and I quickly realized we were outliers in an overwhelmingly senior demographic.
While the age gap didn’t impact onboard interactions (which were typically limited to meals and bar chats), the entertainment was decidedly low-key. A lone pianist provided the soundtrack to cocktail hour and post-dinner relaxation, leaving the ship quiet by 8 PM. Think serene, not social. There was a trivia night, but we sadly missed it – there are no speaker announcements on the ship, ever. If you don’t read the daily flyer, you’ll miss out on additional offerings or new information.
The daily bus tours, though educational, proved to be the trip’s most significant drawback. Seven- to eight-hour excursions often felt like a marathon of “Another Bloody Church” (ABC). While I appreciate historical architecture, the sheer volume of religious sites visited overshadowed opportunities for exploring the charming villages we passed. I craved more free time, a chance to wander at my own pace.
Included lunches on bus tours, while offering a glimpse into local culture with traditional dances, felt rushed and impersonal. Large groups were shuttled in and out, and the pre-set meals proved challenging for a vegetarian. Eastern Europe, surprisingly, boasts fresh farm-to-table cuisine, but I rarely had the chance to experience it beyond the endless supply of rice and bread offered to me at the group lunches. During Lent, some restaurants offered vegetarian options, but these were missed opportunities due to the structured tours.
The bus tours also suffered from overcrowding. Multiple ship buses often converged on the same locations, turning quaint village squares into bustling tourist traps. Attempts to stagger arrivals were only partially successful, leaving us constantly navigating crowds.
The stateroom was a sanctuary, particularly the expansive glass slider that offered breathtaking views of the river. Watching the passing landscapes became my favorite onboard activity.
However, a significant concern was the widespread outbreak of what I strongly suspect was norovirus. While not officially confirmed, many passengers, including myself, experienced severe gastrointestinal distress. *My version was violent and I thought that perhaps Serbia would be my final resting place. I did love my picture window, firm bed and soft pillows as I convalesced. The ship’s response was limited to recommending rice and bananas. I observed potential hygiene issues, such as staff handling dirty glassware, which may have contributed to the rapid spread. While hand sanitizer was readily available, it’s ineffective against norovirus. Given the long bus tours, and time spent in churches, it is my belief that the outbreak was contracted by something we put into our mouths while on board (ie, the dining room).
Ultimately, the Viking Lif offered a safe and well-organized experience, particularly suited for an older demographic. The pre- and post-cruise hotel stays, however, felt somewhat forced, limiting opportunities for independent exploration. If we did NOT do the included bus tour, we would have to find our own way to the ship which was often a good 30-40 minutes away on our own dime and responsibility. While I enjoyed the river cruising aspect, the bus tour-heavy itinerary and the norovirus outbreak left me feeling that this trip might be better suited for a different stage of life. The countries we visited were beautiful with stunning architecture and lovely people, and I am so thankful that we were able to go and experience this. Perhaps I’ll try another river boat trip in ten years or so and skip the bus tours should we dock in a city where I know I can self-navigate with a little research.
